Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Cupola Design

Small structures on roof tops have a special place in my heart.It was to the belfry(a cupola with a bell) of a renovated 1865 school house that I took my wife Alicia on our first date.We talked about life, watched the sun set, drank a glass of wine and felt like we were on top of the world.Almost three children and 10 years later, I think that belfry must have played a part in my good fortune.

As I drive along country roads it is the cupolas I see first in the distance as they create a jagged skyline above the barns.These are small buildings in their own right perched atop of the roofs of larger buildings.In farm structures their function is mostly for ventilation and sometimes to bring light into the hay mow, but no one can deny that they were put up with thought and care.When you see a cupola atop a barn on a rural road you should look at it very carefully. Often it is the one place where the builders 200 years ago had the opportunity to showcase their design and detailing ability.The barn itself usually needed to be put up quickly and simply so the farm could continue to function. The cupola on the other hand is where time was spent working on the details and having some fun.

The role of the cupola on the roof of the American homes is long and varied.Some of my favorite lanterns(cupolas that bring light into the interior) are on Greek Revival and Victorian homes in the Hudson Valley.Early home designers used cupolas the same way we use them today. They used them to ventilate attics, to bring light into an interior space. They made covered rooms to view the world or protect their precious bell, and used cupolas simply as decoration for their rooftops.When cupolas are designed and placed properly, it is hard to imagine the larger buildings without them.

Lanterns not only bring light into homes, but also give off a warm glow on snowy winter nights that feel like beacons guiding us home.

From the Oxford English Dictionary
Cupola:Arounded dome forming or adorning a roof or ceiling.
Belfry:The place in a bell tower or steeple in which bells are housed.
Lantern: A square, curved, or polygonal structure on the top of a dome or a room, with glazed or open sides.

http://www.crisparchitects.com/ James M. Crisp, AIA is an architect working in New York, Connecticut and Massachusetts.

Toilet Tank Lid Cracked

Monday, August 10, 2009

Contemplating a Basement Ceiling - Consider the Industrial Look

When it comes to basement ceilings, we normally think of two alternatives, drywall or dropped ceiling tiles. However there is another alternative. The industrial look is also an alternative for basement ceilings. The industrial look basement ceiling involves simply painting the ceiling as is, floor joists, first floor subfloor, pipes, ductwork, wiring included.

The Industrial look is ideal for the basement ceiling situation where there is limited ceiling height and budget to add either a dropped ceiling or drywall basement ceiling.

The industrial ceiling look is regularly used in the reclamation of older industrial buildings. Frequently you will find upscale restaurants and office space in these reclaimed buildings with industrial ceilings.

If you want to consider an industrial look ceiling, check first with a building inspector or home inspector to see what can be painted and what can not. In some cases, some utilities (e.g. heated duct work) may not be able to be painted.

Once you know what can and can not be painted, simply give the as-is basement ceiling a good cleaning, being careful to remove all of the dust. It is important that anything that is to be painted should be free of dust; else the paint will not stick.

Once the as-is ceiling is clean, spray on a primer, followed by one or two coats of finished paint. Lighter colors will give the room a brighter look and the perception that the ceiling height is higher than it really is.

An Industrial Look basement ceiling is a great alternative to traditional basement ceiling choices and is the most affordable to install. Before deciding on your ceiling consider the Industrial Look.

For more help on basement remodeling see HomeAdditionPlus.com's Basement Remodeling Bid Sheet.

About the Author: Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more information about Home Improvement and Home Additions and Home Remodeling and Repair visit homeadditionplus.com and homeaddition.blogspot.com

Remodeling Your Home Tips

You know....been there done that. That's me. I've been fortunate to have been able to live in every house I've remodeled, call me crazy. I've seen first hand the mistakes and regrets you'll have so here are seven must do's!

Hire an architect: Perhaps the best money you'll spend out of your whole budget. Computer-aided software will create every detail on your plans which turns into huge labor savings on the job site, and less headache. It will also allow you to simplify the construction plan as a whole to shorten construction time.

Hire a contractor: Unless you've done this before, or you're in the trade, never attempt this on your own. Books and advice from friends will not prepare you emotionally for the challenge. Working with a plethora of subcontractors, bankers, appraisers, inspectors, and labors will most certainly overwhelm most people. Of course, always do your homework on your contractor, most importantly a license, insurance, and bond. But just as important are references, or referrals. Always ask for pictures, and/or tours of their previous projects.

Have and open mind: Be willing to accept changes in the plans due to unforeseen circumstances. An architect can have a perfect set of plans, but once their put into action on the job site, things always change (usually once the plumbers and HVAC come in).

Don't shortcut yourself: Get the house you want now! Moving a wall here or there, adding a deck here, or moving the sink over there, might seem like major changes, but they're not. And contractors might complain, but it's your money, and it's better to do it now while your subs are already on the job site. Don't short yourself on materials either. Pay now or pay later.

Take pictures: And not just once a week. Have a plan to go every day in the evening when the workers are gone, and take lots of pictures from every angle. This is especially important when mechanicals are in. This comes in very handily when you need to hang that picture on the wall where the electrical service enters the house. Pictures will also come in very handy at inspection time. Having these at the ready for your inspections will most certainly ease tensions.

Hold your Contractor Accountable: They don't get their final draw until your 100 percent satisfied, and all problems have been dealt with. A good contractor won't beg you for money if they're reputable. A busy contractor is a good contractor, and probably won't need your money right away anyway.

Detail your experience: Remodeling is emotionally challenging, but very rewarding, especially if you DIY. Keep a diary of this experience, and add your pictures along the way. Job sites are always good places to get quotables (not always suitable for children). Make a scrapbook page and display it for all to see and remember. Enjoy!

Hear My 2 Cents on a variety of topics, and product reviews at http://www.my2cents-chris.blogspot.com Be sure to browse my links to informative information and family blogs. Thank you for viewing my articles. I pride myself on providing informative and tell it like it is information.

Discolored Roof Shingles

Sunday, August 9, 2009

How to Create the Perfect Patio Experience

By taking time to plan and design your patio, you can create an area where all the different features combine to produce a unique space that possesses character, comfort and charm. In effect, transforming a popular garden feature into an outside room.

To create the perfect patio for your garden, consider the size and position of the patio area carefully. Most people prefer the patio to be close to the house but you may wish to choose a location in a sunnier part of the garden or a position offering a better view.

By placing the patio near to trees and shrubbery, you create a naturally sheltered area similar to an arbour. But this type of location can bring problems. Firstly excavating the footings for the patio may cause damage to the roots of the trees and shrubs that were the chief attraction of that particular location. Close proximity to trees and shrubs will almost definitely result in the unsightly problem of leaf mould forming on the patio creating a slippery and hazardous surface.

For a patio that complements the house and garden, proportions are all-important. When deciding on the size of the patio, you must also think practically about how it will be used. If you want to put a table and chairs on it, you will probably need at least 3m x 3m but to accommodate sunloungers and possibly barbeques a larger space may be required. So it's worthwhile deciding on the type of patio furniture you will be using at this early stage.

Shape is another important factor in your patio planning. Don't be constrained by the traditional rectangular template - a curved patio is often more space efficient and can blend more harmoniously with the rest of the garden. Experiment with shapes and geometric patterns to highlight garden features or mirror flowerbeds. Mark out the patio area with a hosepipe or string line to help you visualise the space.

Once you have decided on the shape and size of your patio there is another important feature of the design to consider that many people overlook - colour. The variety of stone available to the patio builder is matched, if not surpassed, by the rich diversity of colours in which stone paving materials now come. A quick glance at any paving stone supplier's catalogue or website will vividly illustrate this. We will look at the colours available later, but at this stage it is a good idea to consider whether you want the colour of the patio to complement or contrast with the colour of the walls of your house.

Then there are the questions of patterned or plain and mix or match? Are you going to use stone of the same colour or do want to create a pattern on the patio surface?

Matching different materials is yet another option worth considering. A patio constructed of two different types of stone can be very effective, as can the inclusion of an area of decorative gravel in the design. But if the mix and match approach appeals to you take care, for not all materials will work well together.

As with so much connected with design, personal taste plays a significant and overriding role. Nevertheless, it is a generally accepted rule that natural stone does not work well with reconstructed materials.

The patio's perimeter also offers the opportunity for other design elements that can enhance its overall appearance. Firstly, you may want to build a low ornamental wall around the perimeter of your patio. Once again it is at the design stage where you should be looking into the height of the wall, the type and colour of the brick you are going to use and whether the top of the wall will be finished with coping or incorporate areas for planting.

Another option worth considering is having contrasting edging at the patio's perimeter, which can be in terms of both colour and material. A patio constructed of slabs can be given an elegant block edging, providing a simple but effective counterpoint to the main patio area.

Whatever design you are looking for, it is advisable to produce scale drawings to visualise the finished patio. Scale drawings can also assist in calculating the quantity of materials needed.

Patio slabs

Stone slabs or flags come in many shapes, sizes and colours. The main types of stone are natural stone and reconstructed stone. Natural stone is what its name implies and is the more expensive of the two; but natural stone slabs can vary in size and thickness and consequently will require a higher degree of expertise to lay.

Reconstructed stone slabs - sometimes described as reconstituted or artificial stone - are concrete units where a specific concrete mix has been designed to resemble natural stone. A wide range of natural stones can be imitated including Bath stone, Portland stone, Stainton stone and red terracotta.

A word of caution on reconstructed stone slabs. Although they are the less expensive option, the quality can vary greatly and the cheapest stone slab often bears little resemblance to the natural stone it is trying to imitate. So it's advisable to look around to find the best supplier.

Traditionally the most popular stone for building patios has been sandstone, as it comes in a wide range of attractive colours and textures. But there are other interesting and decorative alternatives.

Travertine is a hardwearing stone common to southern Europe. The largest building in the world constructed predominently of travertine is the Colosseum in Rome. A noticable feature of travertine stone is its naturally pitted surface that is excellent for simple, rustic designs. But it's the colours of travertine stone that make it so attractive to patio builders. In addition to grey, beige and white there are rich browns, reds and golds that are ideal for creating a patio with a Mediterrannean appearance.

Another stone favoured by professional patio builders is granite. The reputation granite has for toughness and durability often overshadows its natural beauty. Natural granite slabs are usually dark and silver grey, or pink. But its beauty is heightened in the sun as it sparkles and glints providing a glamorous sophistication.

When looking at the variety of stone available you will soon discover that patio slabs can come with different finishes offering another dimension to patio design. These finishes are produced by specific operations: acid-etched, smooth or coarse ground, grit or sand-blasted, rubbed or polished, giving the stone a different appearance and character.

A riven surface refers to stone that has the appearance of having split away from the main rock mass resulting in a rough, textured appearance. Tumbled stone has a distressed look marked by rounded edges and a well-worn quality. Polished stone has a smooth surface imparting a refined elegance, while in stark contrast slabs that have been shot-blast have a coarse, roughened surface.

Block paving and setts?

Although the patio slab or flag is the most popular stone material for building patios other materials are available, namely block paving and setts.

Block paving comprises of rectangular shaped blocks similar to bricks. The most common size for block pavers is 200mm x 100mm with a depth of around between 50mm. They can either be made of concrete or clay and come in a wide selection of colours. Clay paving blocks are more expensive than the concrete variety but both can be tumbled or polished

Paving blocks are usually laid in one of three patterns: herringbone, stretcher bond and basketweave.

Whatever stone material you decide to use, accurate plans will help you estimate the quantity of materials needed and get quotes. Remember to check that there are no underground pipes and cables in the area. If the patio is to butt onto an exterior house wall, it must be below the damp proof course.

John Burry is the editor of http://www.lets-do-diy.com He has extensive experience writing for a broad spectrum of UK publications coveringindustries as diverse as health, automotive, beauty, new media and construction. Before taking up his current position he worked in PRwhere he was account manager for a number of blue chip clients. John has gained a reputation for detailedresearch and presenting information clearly and concisely.

Water Damage Repairs

Saturday, August 8, 2009

Installing a Toilet

The installation of a toilet is a relatively easy job for a homeowner. With a couple of wrenches, a screwdriver and a few shims a new toilet can be installed in about one hour.

Toilets can be purchased at any home improvement store or plumbing supply center. Typically a gravity flush toilet costs between $150 and $300, however the price can double or triple for more elaborate units, such as pressure flush systems. Today's toilets are mandated to use no more than 1.6 gallons per flush, where as older units used as much as 5 gallons. The initial 1.6 gallon toilets were notorious for frequently clogging, however over the past several years suppliers have improved the performance of these low water-use systems.

Setting the Toilet

A toilet usually consists of two main parts: a bowl and a tank. It is best to first install the bowl. Prior to seating the bowl, check if the closet flange has been temporarily plugged with insulation or a rag to prevent sewer gases from escaping. Remove this. Next set the bowl on top of the closet flange to determine if it sits level. If it does not, prepare some shims to use later.

Next remove the bowl, and insert the closet bolts (approximately 2" long bolts) into the slots on the closet flange.

Then turn the bowl over and install a wax ring gasket over the outlet of the bowl. This outlet is also know as the "horn".

Place the bowl onto the closet flange. Make sure the bowl is well seated by rocking the bowl down. Once the bowl has been seated, place a level on it and use the shims as necessary. Next, using nuts and washers tighten up the bolts. Note: be careful not to over-tighten these bolts as it could crack the bowl.

Next attach the tank to the bowl using the tank bolts, nuts and washers. Again, do not over tighten.

Installing the Float Supply Unit

Install the float supply unit into the tank and hook up the water line to the tank inlet. Again, do not over tighten and make sure to use the washers supplied.

Next, turn the supply line on and adjust the float as necessary.
Finally, caulk around the base of the unit and you are done.

About the Author: Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more information about Home Improvement and Home Additions, and Home Remodeling and Repair visit homeadditionplus.com and homeaddition.blogspot.com

Friday, August 7, 2009

Building Green With Steel

Over the years many developers, builders and architects have put their focus on creating environmentally responsible or sustainable buildings. Steel buildings fit these requirements beautifully! Using a steel building for your next building is an environmentally sound choice as well as a safe one, as steel can be recycled and then remanufactured into new pieces that retain their structural integrity. Steel offers many advantages over wood-frame construction over and above their environmental benefits.

In the past steel was primarily used for railroads and automobiles, today though it is quickly becoming the choice material for new buildings. Due to steel's resistance to both fire and earthquake it is a favorite building material for areas where these risks are predominant, such as California and Hawaii.

Steel is lightweight, making it easier to work with and cheaper to ship and store than lumber. Steel buildings are also easier to carry and move around a jobsite, so there is less strain put on construction workers who are putting together steel buildings. Steel buildings are manufactured to strict standards to ensure quality, and they do not contain twists or knots like traditional building materials, nor will they ever get them so you're building with straight parts when you build a steel building which of course, saves in labor and frustration.

Construction-grade steel already uses approximately 70% recycled content and generates very little waste during production. In fact, Absolute Steel buildings are certified to be 67% recycled materials. It is noncombustible and also resists insect infestation. When the steel is no longer needed (such as when a building is demolished) it can be fully recycled into new steel products.

Steel buildings are non-toxic and don't off-gas, keeping the indoor air free of contaminants. It had a rigid composition that makes it the perfect choice for building in a high-wind area. Steel buildings do not absorb water or dry out so one never has to worry about cracking or rotting during the lifetime of the building.

Did you know steel is the most recycled material in the whole world, since any type of steel can be recycled endless times to make new steel products? It takes 75% less energy to produce recycled steel than new steel. In fact, for every ton of recycled steel produced, 2500lbs of iron ore is saved as well as 1000lbs of coal and 40lbs of limestone.

Steel is certainly the product that should be used to build a strong building, as it will not warp, split or rot, will not grow mold and is extremely resistant to wind, fire and insects. Steel also has about a 200 year lifespan, giving steel buildings more longevity than their lumber-built counterparts.

Although on the surface it would appear that steel framing is more expensive than wood, building with steel offers many advantages that certainly offset the cost. Steel allows for different, more complex designs and hold up better in extreme climates, which in turn leads to lower insurance premiums.

In closing, steel buildings are more energy efficient, have minimal maintenance, and are certainly more environmentally friendly than their wood counterparts. Old steel buildings that are no long maintainable can be 100% recycled into new building materials with a minimum of effect on the environment. If you are considering a switch to a building material that helps the environment while providing a safe and secure place for your business or family then a steel building should be at the top of your list.

For more information on steel buildings, visit AbsoluteRV.com

Bathtub Skirt Wall Damage

Alternatives to Fiberglass Insulation

When building a home, insulation is one of the major aspects that can cut future heating and cooling costs. Fiberglass insulation has been the primary choice, but not anymore.

Alternatives to Fiberglass Insulation

People have become much more sensitive to environmental and energy savings issues when building homes. Whereas such subjects were rarely discussed 20 years ago, they are now on the front burner for many of us. This transition has been so extensive that homebuilders now incorporate both issues in their projects and use their solutions as selling points. If these subjects have become part of the marketing, you know the transition to more environmental and energy consciousness has come full circle.

Have you ever wondered what happens to the newspapers you haul out to curb with the other recycling every week? Since I am mentioning it in this article, it is probably obvious the newspapers are being turned into insulation products. This relatively new insulation product is quickly overtaking fiberglass insulation in new home building projects, remodels and additions. Known as fiber insulation, it is more environmentally friendly than fiberglass, less expensive and just as good at sealing homes.

Fiber insulation is typically made up of recycled newspapers. Yes, those newspapers you haul out to the curb each week with the trash. Small amounts of ground up cardboard can also be included in some products. The material is shredded and then treated with acrylic binders to make the material hold together. To prevent fires, it is treated with various forms of fire retardant materials.

Fiber insulation almost always comes in a loose fill form. The loose fill is typically blown into cavities requiring insulation instead of being stapled up as seen with traditional fiberglass rolls. The material usually goes in dry, but there are wet versions that are sprayed on much like more traditional spray on insulation products.

As you may know, recycling newspaper is something everyone does these days. Just take a look down the street on garbage day. Recycle boxes of newspapers are on every driveway. This massive recycling produces tons of shredded newspaper material. Frankly, it cant be turned into usable materials fast enough. This inventory problem means the material is extremely cheap. As a result, fiber insulation can cost up to 25 percent cheaper than fiberglass insulation.

Whether you are building new, doing an improvement or just adding on, fiber insulation represents a good deal on all fronts. Just tell them you want the stuff made out of recycled newspapers.

Rick Chapo is with SolarCompanies.com, a directory of solar energy companies. Visit us to read more articles on solar power and renewable energy.