Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Saving Money on Your Energy Bills

Believe it or not, it is entirely possibly to start saving tonight on your energy bills - no matter where you live, or the type of house you live in. The real secret to saving money is knowing where to start. So, let's get started!

It's a very important step - yet it is one that nearly everyone falls all over. In fact, it is the first step for a reason. Knowing where to start looking for energy problems is half the battle. Once you find the problem areas of your home, you can find solutions that will fix or remedy those areas.

In this article, we'll focus on your kitchen's energy usage.

Every home or apartment has a kitchen. And in this kitchen there are numerous appliances you have to keep your eye on. Do you know what the biggest energy waster is in 95% of kitchens? It's the refrigerator. That modern marvel is terrific for keeping foods from spoiling, but if it is more than 10 years old, it is "obsolete" and a waster of energy. Today's refrigerator units use on average 25% less energy than their predecessors just 10 years ago.

So what can go wrong with a refrigerator? Usually the first sign of wear on an old fridge is the seals and hinges of the door. It isn't surprising when you consider that the doors are opened and closed repeatedly at least 10 times a day in over 50% of homes. Think about how often you open and close the doors on a daily basis. Twice at breakfast, four times or more at dinner, and a few more times to reach for a cold beverage.

All the strain on the hinges adds up, especially on older units. Now granted, they are built to withstand the constant opening and closing, but eventually problems will crop up. And when they do, either the door refuses to close all the way or it gives way to small areas around the door that aren't insulating as well as they should.

And the seal...well it doesn't take long for the seal to crack or lose its tight "grip". Once this happens, refrigerated air will leak out (or more to the point, warmer air will seep in) causing your fridge to work harder. The additional strain on the compressor, fan, and other parts means they run longer, on average, than usual. And this directly translates to high energy bills.

So, whats the solution? Well, hinges should be replaced if they are going bad, and the seals should be checked - especially on older units. You can also improve the efficiency of your fridge by ensuring it is not placed in direct sunlight or near a heat register. Minimize the amount of times the doors are opened and closed. Every time you open or close the door, you are exchanging cooled air for warm air. Finally, vacuum the exchanger coils once per year to allow better air circulation and more efficient operation.

The fridge is not the only place energy is used or potentially wasted. Your stove/oven also uses energy. And like refrigerators, the older they are the less efficient they become.

Whether you have an electric range or gas range, be aware that advances in appliance technology again means that units 10 years old or more are less efficient than current models. Keep in mind too if you have a natural gas range that there is inherent inefficiency with burning fuel for heat. Every gas appliance has an efficiency rating which tells you how efficient the unit is at converting the gas input to heat. As a practical example, if a range has a 10,000 BTU burner and operates at 80% efficiency, the most heat it will out put is 8,000 BTU. As the unit gets older, the efficiency rating goes down, so the fuel is burned less efficiently. This means that the range will need to run longer to achieve the desired result. Again, the direct result is higher gas bills.

Electric ranges are no different, except, as with all electronics, they are near 100% efficient in converting the "power". In other words, there isn't a built in efficiency problem as with natural gas appliances. The wattage the unit is rated at will be what it takes as input, and the heat output is consistent. There is no need to convert to an "efficiency output" as with natural gas. However, like their gas counterparts, the heating elements and electronics inside the unit certainly become outdated or can break over time. Consider that if an electric range burner "burns out" or breaks, it is useless. It must be replaced. Gas appliances usually don't have these electrical problems. Newer units use less power and heat better because of better convective cooking surfaces, better heating elements, and better, more energy friendly electronics inside the unit.

Ovens, whether they are electric or gas, typically have the same faults. Over time, the seals wear out and heat is wasted through the doors, Their heating elements as well can become old and outdated. Additionally, the insulation that surrounds the oven may crumble or being to show signs of wear. All these elements contribute to the oven's inefficiency.

So, how do you combat these problems? Sometimes, it isn't an option to use them less. But ideally, that is the best course of action. When using the oven, try to cook foods during the last 5 minutes of the cooking cycle with the heat "off". Avoid peeking into the oven - use the window. Opening the oven too often allows vital heat to escape, and thus the oven as to turn on for a period of time to compensate for the lost heat. You can use a similar trick with electric ranges. The element will remain warm for a couple minutes after it is turned off. Use covers when cooking on the range as they trap more heat than open pots and pans. Lastly, once boiling temperature is reached, turn down the burner to maintain the boil. It saves energy, while still boiling the liquid.

Last, let's touch briefly on microwaves. Another modern marvel that makes cooking fast and simple. There is a direct correlation between the power of the microwave and the power consumption. The power, measured in watts, is the power input. At 100% power, the microwave converts most of the power input to radiation, which heats the food/liquid in the microwave. Simply put, the more powerful the microwave, the more energy it takes. There is no such thing as a powerful microwave that is "energy efficient". Powerful microwaves are inherently energy hogs.

So, where's the opportunity for savings here? Well, using the microwave in "short" periods helps. The less you use the unit, the better off you are. And like most other appliances, older units become inefficient over time. The electronics and more importantly the radiation (microwave) source becomes outdated and produces less radiation. The 10 year rule applies here - if it is older than 10 years old, look into replacing it. Also, watch the hinges and door latch. These have a tendency to come loose with constant usage, even if the unit is only a few years old!

I hope you've enjoyed the energy journey through the kitchen. Next article, We'll walk through your living room and look for opportunities for energy savings there. See you then!

Dave Andersen regularly writes about home energy savings tips, energy efficiency, and saving money on home energy bills. He is not only an avid proponent of alternative energy and energy conservation, but of homeowner education about their home energy usage. He is a regular contributor to Utility Bill Busters, a free blog updated often with cutting edge energy saving tips for homes and businesses. It can be found at http://www.utilitybillbusters.com

2 comments:

batticdoor said...

How To Stop Drafts and Save On Energy Bills

Imagine leaving a window open all winter long -- the heat loss, cold drafts and wasted energy! If your home has a folding pull-down attic stair, a whole house fan, a fireplace or clothes dryer, that may be just what is occurring in your home every day.

Drafts from these often overlooked holes waste energy and cost you big in the form of higher energy bills. Drafts are the largest source of heating and cooling loss in the home.

Drafts occur through the small cracks around doors, windows, pipes, etc. Most homeowners are well aware of the benefits that caulk and weatherstripping provide to minimize energy loss and drafts.

But what can you do about drafts from the four largest “holes” in your home -- the folding attic stair, the whole house fan, the fireplace and the clothes dryer? Here are some tips and techniques that can easily, quickly and inexpensively seal and insulate these holes.

Attic Stairs

When attic stairs are installed, a large hole (approximately 10 square feet) is created in your ceiling. The ceiling and insulation that were there have to be
removed, leaving only a thin, unsealed, sheet of plywood.

Your attic space is ventilated directly to the outdoors. In the winter, the attic space can be very cold, and in the summer it can be very hot. And what is separating your conditioned house from your unconditioned attic? That thin sheet of plywood.

Often a gap can be observed around the perimeter of the attic door. Try this yourself: at night, turn on the attic light and shut the attic stairway door -- do you see any light coming through?

If you do, heated and air-conditioned air is leaking out of these large gaps in your home 24-hours a day. This is like leaving a window or skylight open all year ‘round.

An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add an insulated attic stair cover. An attic stair cover seals the stairs, stopping drafts and energy loss. Add the desired amount of insulation over the cover to restore the insulation removed from the ceiling.

Whole House Fans and Air Conditioning Vents

Much like attic stairs above, when whole house fans are installed, a large hole (up to 16 square feet or larger) is created in your ceiling. The ceiling and insulation that were there have to be removed, leaving only the drafty ceiling shutter between you and the outdoors.

An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a whole house fan shutter seal. Made from white textured flexible insulation, the shutter seal is installed over the ceiling shutter, secured with Velcro, and trimmed to fit. The shutter seal can also be used to seal and insulate air conditioning vents, and is easily removed when desired.

Fireplaces

Over 100 million homes, in North America are constructed with wood or gas burning fireplaces. Unfortunately there are negative side effects that the fireplace brings to a home, especially during the winter heating season. Fireplaces are energy losers.

Researchers have studied this to determine the amount of heat loss through a fireplace, and the results are amazing. One research study showed that an open damper on an unused fireplace in a well-insulated house can raise overall heating-energy consumption by 30 percent.

A recent study showed that for many consumers, their heating bills may be more than $500 higher per winter due to the drafts and wasted energy caused by fireplaces.

Why does a home with a fireplace have higher energy bills? Your chimney is an opening that leads directly outdoors -- just like an open window. Even if the damper is shut, it is not airtight.

Glass doors don’t stop the drafts either. The fireplace is like a giant straw sucking your expensive heated or air-conditioned air right out of your house!

An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a Fireplace Plug to your fireplace. Available from Battic Door, a company known for their energy conservation products, the Fireplace Plug is an inflatable pillow that seals the fireplace damper, eliminating drafts, odors, and noise. The pillow is removed whenever the fireplace is used, then reinserted after.

Clothes Dryer Exhaust Ducts

In many homes, the room with the clothes dryer is the coldest room in the house. Your clothes dryer is connected to an exhaust duct that is open to the outdoors. In the winter, cold drafts in through the duct, through your dryer and into your house.

Dryer vents use a sheet-metal flapper to try to reduce these drafts. This is very primitive technology that does not provide a positive seal to stop the drafts. Compounding the problem is that over time, lint clogs the flapper valve causing it to stay open.

An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a dryer vent seal. This will reduce unwanted drafts, and also keeps out pests, bees and rodents. The vent will remain closed unless the dryer is in use. When the dryer is in use, a floating shuttle rises to allow warm air, lint and moisture to escape.

For more information on Battic Door’s energy conservation solutions and products for your home, visit www.batticdoor.com or, to request a free catalog, send a self-addressed stamped envelope to P.O. Box 15, Mansfield, MA 02048.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Mark D. Tyrol is a Professional Engineer specializing in cause and origin of construction defects. He developed several residential energy conservation products including an attic stair cover and an attic access door. Battic Door is the US distributor of the fireplace plug. To learn more visit www.batticdoor.com

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